Skip to main content
Wikispaces Classroom is now free, social, and easier than ever.
Try it today.
Pages and Files
Applique 2 - Owl mitt (Snowy and Horned owls)
Applique I - Gazing cat
Bags - Bunny bag
Bags - Bunny purse
Bags - Denim backpack
Bags - Denim bag 1
Bags - Little kid's backpack
Christmas - Old Man Santa
Christmas - Santa Doll
Converting units - centimeters and inches
Decorations - Brooch 1 - Owl
Decorations - Brooch 2 - Owl
Decorations - Brooch 3 - Tattered Flowers
Decorations - Fabric roses
Decorations - Organza Flowers
Decorations - Pompoms
Decorations - Rickrack Rose
Decorations - Yo yo's
Decorations - YoYo creations - examples
Add "All Pages"
Dolls - Hair
Creating hair for your doll
Adding hair to any doll enhances the doll's special personality.
Homemade dolls can be given more personality by adding hair, e.g. using wool, French knots, braids, a mohawk, karakul or mohair.
Things You'll Need - not all these will be needed for all hair types
Embroidery floss, black
Small strips of colorful fabric
Karakul (if preferred for the hair)
Yarn, wool or other materials for hair, in the colours preferred
Mohair pelt (if preferred for the hair)
1 French Knot Hair
external image How_to_do_French_knots_by_LAMdesigns.jpg
Recreate the look of old-time simplicity by using one simple embroidery stitch, the French knot, to create the hair for a folk-art type African American rag doll. Practice making French knots on a piece of scrap fabric before attempting them on your rag doll.
Thread a needle with an approximately 18-inch piece of black embroidery floss and knot the end of the thread. Bring the needle to the front of a piece of scrap fabric.
Grasp the thread firmly with your left index finger and thumb. Hold it away from the fabric. Wrap the thread around the needle with your left hand while the point of the needle faces away from the fabric. Wrap it twice around the needle to make a small knot and three times around to make a larger knot.
Continue to hold the thread tightly as you place the tip of the needle close to the hole that it came out from. Push the needle to the back of the fabric while continuing to hold the thread taunt.
Do not place the tip of the needle in the same hole as it will pull the French knot to the back of the fabric. Do not let loose of the thread until all the thread has been passed to the back of the fabric or else your French knot will be uneven and look sloppy.Example of French knot hair on Marmy Doll
external image 004.JPG
2 Short wool hair
Tie pieces of wool onto the head all over the head. Cut the strings to the length you require.
Here are photos of the steps:
Using my needle I take embroidery floss in as close to the same shade as possible and place across the head close to the top seam. I also place a few on either side of her face.(How many and how close you place these will alter the look in the end....so play and have fun!)
I then take my yarn and cut into about 6-8 inche lengths.
external image Cdollhair1.JPG
So my thread looks like this across the doll's head.......
external image Cdollhair2.JPG
and I take my strands of yarn and divide them into small sections. (How ever many pieces of embroidery floss I placed thru the head....is how many bundles of yarn I will need)
external image Cdollhair3.JPG
I usually start right at the top of my dolls head and place ONE bundle of thread between the strands of embroidery floss. I take the floss and tie a knot TIGHTLY right in the middle of the bundle.
I keep taking the bundles and knotting the floss in the middle. You will shift the bundles around a bit as you tie. Offset them from the others. Different yarns give you more room to play with.
external image Cdollhair4.JPG
Close up of my knot......bundle would be right in the middle of that knot!
external image Cdollhair5.JPG
Working your way around the dolls head, wrapping the bundles with the floss.....her hair is now starting to really appear FULL.
How large your bundle of yarn and how many bundles you attach across the head......all will effect the finished look of the doll.Play around and have fun!
external image Cdollhair7.JPG
As simple as a change in the style of yarn used will create a different effect in this technique. Play around with the lengths of yarn....the types of yarn.
external image Cdollhair8.JPG
external image 003.JPG
Create a more fanciful hair style for your African American rag doll by making a series of braids that can be attached anywhere on the doll's head. Braid either yarn or embroidery floss into a number of simple braids. Tie off the braids with either small strips of colorful fabric or little barrettes.One way to attach the braids is to
follow the same steps to attach the braids described in the Short Wool hair tutorial above.
Another way to attach the braids: Pin the braids in place all about the head with straight pins to be sure that the hairstyle appears pleasing. Sew each braid in place using a needle and thread. Remove the straight pins.
4 Wool mohawk
external image VooDoo-Mohwak.jpg
One way of creating a mohawk:
FUN FUR HAIR
Until now I preferred fun fur or fuzzy yarn to give a doll some hair. It's very fast and looks very full.
For some real good tips on working with fuzzy yarn I would like to link to June of
, she shares some real good
information on fuzzy yarns
I also would like to add one more tip: use a hook that's big enough. This helps alot seeing your stitches and it's not necessary to crochet tight when you want to make hair.
You can crochet simply in the round, like you would when making the head of your doll, increase for as many rows as necessary but don't get a bigger circumfarance than the dolls head. Now go from here and crochtet a few more rows without increasing. You receive a wig or a furry cap that you can use as hair.
you also can create other styles like a Mohawk haircut (I use this alot for my trolls, a Mohawk suits best for trolls I think ^_^)
The directions for this are
1 -- chain 25
2 -- start in 3rd stitch from hook: make a double crochet (dc), make a dc in next st, triple crochet (tc) into the next 4 sts, dc into the next 5 sts, single crochet (sc) into next 12 sts
3 -- continue on other side of starting chain: sc 12 times, dc 5 times, tc 4 times, dc into next 2 sts and end with a slipstitch
cut your yarn and leave a quite long yarn end
To cut a long yarn end is a good tip for every hairstyle, this way you can use the yarn end to sew the hair to the head and don't need to add extra yarn (extra yarn means extra ends to weave in)
Attach various colours of wool to the middle of head, ensuring you leave a string of wool which will be cut to form the hair. Here are the steps for attaching longer hair to your doll, by attaching the hair with knots to the head's 'skin':
5 Hair attached with a simple knot I
To make doll hair for a knitted doll, you need to cut lengths of yarn that are twice as long as you want the finished hair to be, plus maybe an inch and a half more, to allow for the knot and a final trim - it's always better to make hair too long, so you can trim to the exact style you want, rather than hair too short, which doesn't look right.
external image doll+hair+003.jpg
Insert a crochet hook into the doll's head where you would like a strand of hair to be.
external image doll+hair+004.jpg
Fold one of your strands of yarn in half and put it on the crochet hook...
external image doll+hair+005.jpg
...then pull a loop through.
external image doll+hair+006.jpg
Take the two ends of the yarn and pull them through the loop you have just created...
external image doll+hair+007.jpg
Then pull gently to create a firm knot. Voila - your first two strands of hair. Repeat all over the doll's head. This method gives you great control over your doll's hairstyle! Try using a mixture of different yarns and different thickness.
external image lucius%2Band%2Bseverus%2Bhave%2Btea%2B2.jpg
6 Hair attached with a simple knot II
7 Longer hair I
Create the Hair:
To make the hair, use the Small book and place a 4 inch piece of yarn across the top edge of the book as you did for the body.
Wind the yarn around 50 times.
Slip the wound yarn off the book and tie the yarn together tightly with the 4 inch piece of yarn.
Cut the opposite end of the wound yarn along the bend so that you will have cluster of long strands, tied in the middle. See photo at #9.
external image yarnsteps5.jpg
|| external image yarnsteps5.jpg ||
Place the hair over the head with the gathered tie centered at the top.
Use a doll maker’s needle and the hair color yarn to carefully, sew the hair in place at the top.
Bring the needle and yarn down to one of the sides of the neck. (This should be done by sending the needle through the inside of the doll's head.)
Loosely stitch over a small segment of the yarn hair along the neck, then another segment, then another, and so on until you reach the other side of the neck and the hair is secured evenly across the back of the neck as shown in the photo at #10.
Tie off the end of your stitching yarn under the hair where it is concealed.
8 Longer Hair II
A Waldorf Doll Hair Tutorial – Or: how to make Lina’s hair.
|| 2999301832_e911ab286 ||
What you need:
- Yarn in the desired hair colour. This can be any yarn you like, from sock yarn to DK weight yarn to mohair. It all depends on the size of your doll, and the desired look. For Lina, I used Dream in Color Smooshy.
- Tissue paper
- Painter’s tape
- Sewing thread in (preferably) the colour of the yarn you’re using for the hair
- A sewing machine
- A CD cover or book to wrap the yarn around
How it’s done:
Wrap as much yarn as you need to cover the head (from forehead to halfway down the back of the head) around a CD cover or book (depending on the length you’d like the final wig to be). Make sure all threads of yarn are neatly arranged. A bit of overlap is okay, but there shouldn’t be any big gaps.
Secure the yarn with painter’s tape on both sides of your CD cover or book. You should have an opening of about 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) in the middle.
external image 2998643441_e62507129a-300x225.jpg
NB: I use painter’s tape instead of sellotape, because it’s less adhesive and thus can be removed more easily later on.
Once the yarn has been securely taped together, cut it at the bottom end. Gently remove the yarn from your CD cover or book and lay it down on a piece of tissue paper. You should end up with something like this:
external image 2999300578_b88459b504-300x225.jpg
Cover it with another piece of tissue paper and pin it together, like this:
external image 2999300662_0ca74ed046-300x225.jpg
NB: you don’t necessarily need to cover all yarn with tissue paper. A smaller piece will do the job just as well – just make sure the two bits of painter’s tape and the gap in the middle are well covered and won’t slide away when you’re sewing!
Transfer the whole package to your sewing machine and make sure the pressure of the machine’s foot is very low, or you’ll shred the whole thing to bits and your machine will eat the yarn! Not pretty, I can tell you from bitter experience.
Gently sew up and down the middle a few times. I find three times usually does the trick. You want to use a sewing thread that’s more or less the same colour as your yarn. (For clarity’s sake, I’ve used a contrasting colour in this tutorial.) If all goes well, you’ll end up with something like this:
external image 2998461163_4f26e4e60f1-300x225.jpg
Next step: take out the pins and very, very gently remove the tissue paper! Don’t rip it, because then you’ll probably end up taking half of the seam you’ve just made with you. Then, ever so gently remove the tape as well. When you’re done, pat yourself on the shoulder because…
external image 2999300950_ca5e580def-300x225.jpg
Voila! You’ve just made your first layer of hair!
Pin the hair to your doll’s head like so:
external image 2999301020_49e0ec0dcf-300x225.jpg
Threading a long doll needle with a string of yarn, backstitch your layer securely into place in the middle. Go back and forth a few times. It’ll look like this:
external image 2999301178_be8fcc09dc-300x225.jpg
Next, stitch it into place all around the head, starting at the eye line, like this:
external image 2999301270_3c7f6ec8e3-300x225.jpg
The end result should look something like this:
external image 2999301442_7d397c622a-300x225.jpg
First layer done!!
For a very full head of hair, repeat this process for one more layer, but omit the stitching to the side of the head; just stitch down in the middle.
OR you can skip this second layer and go straight ahead to the final bit:
The side part. For this, I made two small packages of yarn:
external image 2999301526_2eb610c3e6-300x225.jpg
One will once more cover the head, one will form the side part. They’re both the same length as the previous layer(s). For the smaller layer, which will go to the front of the head, you’ll have to make sure the painter’s tape is to the side instead of in the middle. (A good way to decide where to sew it, is to quickly tack it to the head and mark the place where you’ll want the side part to be.) Cover with tissue paper and sew both packages on the machine like you did before.
Pin both layers to the head like this:
external image 2998462141_353c4d717f-300x225.jpg
The bigger one pinned down in the middle, the smaller one to the side.
external image 2998462213_a6b572ab9c-300x225.jpg
Stitch both to the head with yarn, removing the pins as you go. Do a few stitches to secure the front hair to the right (the part you didn’t sew on the machine) side of the head. This is to keep the hair from falling into your poor doll’s eyes all the time.Tie a bow to one side, trim the hair so it’s neat and tidy (or don’t, if you like a wild and tousled look), and…
external image 2998462375_0d1e7591dc-300x225.jpg
Hurray! Your Waldorf doll now has hair like Lina’s!
9 Longer hair III - How to cover the back of head
|| 2999301832_e911ab286 ||
A couple of people have told me they had problems covering the back of their doll’s head
when using my tutorial
, and since I remember having the exact same problem when I first started making this kind of hair, I thought I’d clarify!
I haven’t got my original model Lina here at the moment, since she’s still hanging out at my friend Stefanie’s house, probably drinking Summer cocktails and thoroughly enjoying herself!
Fortunately, Mina offered to take her place. Thank you Mina!
The trick with getting the back of the head covered is to add enough yarn as a whole, especially at the back. Also, having more than one layer helps.
What I do is this: my first layer of yarn, spread out from the front to the back of the head, covers the doll from forehead to about halfway down the back of her head. I stitch this down in the middle, until just below the crown, bunching up the surplus yarn at the back as I stitch (because it originally went halfway down when spread out, and I’m now securing it until just below the crown, I’ve got some extra yarn). After it has been secured, I fingercomb this extra yarn down the back of the head, starting at the crown. Unfortunately, I can’t show you any pictures of this part right now, as most of my dolls-in-progress are still in boxes waiting to be unpacked! But I hope my description will be sufficient for now.
The next step is to stitch this first layer all around the head as usual, starting at the side, at eye level, making sure to gradually dip down a bit when you reach the back of the head, and up again to the other side. Like this:
side view stitching
|| side view stitching ||
And seen from the back:
back view stitching
|| back view stitching ||
This should leave you with a well covered head!
A ‘regular’ second or even third layer of yarn, stitched down just in the middle, will make it look even better.
centre seam stitching at the back
|| centre seam stitching at the back ||
And combed down, it’ll look like this:
hair combed down
|| hair combed down ||
I hope this helps! Please let me know if there’s anything that’s still unclear, and I’ll do my best to clarify things a bit more!
© Meike, August 2009.
8 Longer hair IV - Pig tails
Part 1: how to sew girls hair
I want to show you how I make doll’s hair out of knitting yarn.
First you need to draw a line on your doll’s head, starting from her forehead all the way over her head to her neckline where you want the hair to end. Measure that line (e.g. 15 cm). Then take some Scotch tape (= the same length as the line you’ve just measured) and put it with the adhesive strip up on your table.
Now measure how long you want the hair to be, e.g. from her left shoulder straight up over her head to her right shoulder (26 cm in this example).
Now place the yarn one thread at a time on the tape (don’t cut them!), as shown in the picture. Make sure they lie neatly next to one another.
Place a piece of paper tissue (I’ve used toilet paper) on top of the centre line.
Carefully turn everything around and start sewing over the tape with the paper tissue at the bottom. (Use little stitches!)
Remove the tape and the tissue. Do this very slowly and with extreme care to avoid moving any hair. You might want to use tweezers for this.
Place this ‘wig’ on the line you’ve drawn earlier on your doll’s head. Make sure you keep the right and left side separated so the stitched line is still visible. Now pin and sew it manually in place, starting from the forehead and ending at the neckline.
Once you’re done with this, you can use some fabric glue to keep the hair in place if desired.
Now draw a line on both sides of the doll’s head, as shown in the picture.
Take the first 4 threads and sew them on this line. Then take the next 4 threads and do exactly the same.
Repeat this until all threads are sewn in place.
There she is: one side is already sewn in place.
Once you’ve done both sides you can make pigtails and sew on a nice ribbon to render the stitches invisible!
You can make all kinds of hair using this method. You could make bangs (in this case you have to sew very short threads of yarn on the Scotch tape and sew it on top of the doll’s head before you sew the long hair!). Or you could use ‘ribbon-yarn’ or strips of fabric. I guess I must try that one out on my next doll.
10 Boy Hair I
For the boys I use the same method as just above (Longer Hair - Pigtails), but I sew the wigs in another direction on the head. Because you need more wigs, to cover the head completely, I use a quicker method to sew the wigs. This is how it goes:
1. Measure the dolls head from ear to ear (over the back of the head). This is the length of tape you need. I use no longer the Scotch tape, but I use masking tape, which is less strong, and easily to remove from the yarn. Also important: you can sew right onto this tape and there is no need for tissue paper any more.
2. the length of the yarn = 2x the length of the desired hair. For a boy I usually take 5cm, so you need to cut threads of 10cm. As you see on the picture, I use a little book for quick and easy cutting the yarn. Now place the yarn one thread at a time on the tape. Make sure they lie neatly next to one another.
3. Start sewing over the yarn with the tape at the bottom. Use little stitches, and press the yarn down with your fingers so it won’t get stuck under your presserfoot.
4. Remove the tape. Do this very slowly and with extreme care to avoid moving any hair. You might want to use tweezers for this.
5. Place this ‘wig’ horizontally on the backside of your doll’s head. Now pin and sew it manually over the stitched line of your wig. When you’ve done this, you fold the hair down and the first row of hair is done.
6. You make as many of these wigs as you need and sew them at 1cm above eachother on the dolls head. Make sure you sew the last one a little over the seam of the head (which means: on the forehead). Notice: the shorter the hair, the more wigs you need. This is how it looks before the haircut:
7. And this is after the haircut:
8. You can use this method also for a girl with loose hair. For example, the last ‘wig’ of this girl is sewn not at the center of the threads, but a few cm on the right side:
11 Short hair (Boy hair) - II
fringe with a lace loom
is a real cool way that creates great hair for shorter hair cuts. Christen of Creepy Cute Crochet has written up a
very handy tutorial
for making a fringe with a lace loom.
I've tried it with a piece of card bord which I cutted to the size I wanted and it works very well:
To make a fringe is a fantastic way to have really long hair, hair that you even could comb.
You could also create a
(when making a new stitch hold a loop with your finger and continue to crochet). This works just like written above, you start like for a doll head and crochet in the round until your wig is finished. But there's a rub in it. I would not cut these fringes, they might come off too easily.
12 Bangs all over the head (Raggedy Anne)
Knotting the yarn wigs on dolls is a fun and creative task in doll making.
For the Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls in the photo I use 2-foot lengths of yarn threaded through a large eye metal needle.
Raggedy Andy and Raggedy Ann sewn by Susan Kramer
|| Raggedy Andy and Raggedy Ann sewn by Susan Kramer ||
Just use a single strand - not a double strand and no knot at the end.
Beginning at the doll’s right jaw line I work up around the face line to the left jaw line. The next arc of stitches goes in a row one quarter inch behind the front row beginning at the doll’s left jaw line this time.
Continue sewing rows moving back over head and side to side. I make the hairline across the lower head even with the jaw line.
Now - here’s how to attach the locks of yarn hair
how to knot on doll yarn wigs by Susan Kramer
|| how to knot on doll yarn wigs by Susan Kramer ||
Study the photo for a minute. I work in a circle around the scalp, this shows the lowest row. I then add rows behind it to fill in the scalp.
Beginning with your long thread:
1. Take a stitch, pull it tight, leaving a 2 inch tail hanging.
2. Take the 2nd stitch and rather than pulling it tight, leave it as a 2 inch long loop.
3. Take a stitch and pull it tight. (Being careful not to pull so hard that the loop of the previous stitch is disturbed.)
4. Take a stitch and rather than pulling it tight, leave it as a 2 inch long loop.
5. Take a stitch and pull it tight. (Being careful not to pull so hard that the loop of the previous stitch is disturbed.)
Continue repeating the sequence of alternating one loose loop with one tight stitch.
Believe me, it holds up - my grandkids play with their dolls and their hair is still holding on tightly!
I like to use both acrylic and worsted wool. The dolls in the photo have acrylic wigs. Be sure your choice is washable, though! Enjoy your doll making projects!
Article and photo credits Susan Kramer
12 Funky hair for smaller dolls I
Tie a knot in yarn for hair
|| Tie a knot in yarn for hair ||
Fold a bunch of yarn around your hand until you get just enough for some funky hair. Tie a knot in the middle as shown. Add a dab of glue and stuff in roll and clip hair. Give her some bangs, long hair, short hair, braids. Finish with cute hair bow or bow tie for the boy. Add a button and your finished!
Polly and Patty Powder
|| Polly and Patty Powder ||
Have a Great Day!
13 Smaller dolls II
14 Embroider hair
If you like embroidering you might like to prefer this method. It creates very neat and realistic hairstyles. You can add different colored spots to add even more reality to this dolls head.
Have a look at the beautiful dolls made by
(ravelry link). She also has written up a
very detailed and informative tutorial
on how you can create this type of hair. I couldn't do any better so have a look at this
15 Needle Felting
Get yourself a set and play around with it. Once you needle felt hair...you will be doing hair that way a lot!
The doll head has already been stuffed and is nice and firm. I take a piece of the sheeps wool and place it across the seam of the dolls head. Holding the felting needle very carefully....they are very sharp and HURT like the dickens when you jab your finger! I start jabbing the needle thru the wool right into the dolls head.
You continue jabbing the needle thru the wool until you can see it is attaching. What is happening is the needle has tiny barbs cut into it. Those barbs are "grabbing" the sheeps wool as they go down inside the doll. The barbs are then "catching" the stuffing inside and messing them together. The more you jab the needle down into the stuffing....more of the wool is being attached.
You can see here the tiny pieces that have attached.
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
You can add as many pieces of the wool as you wish your doll to have. Just keep jabbing with the needle where ever you wish the wool to attach.
Before you know it....your doll has a full head of sheeps wool for hair!
Doesn't she look so very prim!
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
16 Crocheted hairstyles
To crochet a haircut is as easy as to crochet your doll. You can use the same type of yarn you used for your doll and of course the same hook. You can crochet Ponytails or piggy tails like in this picture from the talented May (check out
flickr profile: pureEva
Above is a picture of the style I just made, something that should look like thick curled hair, a little bit rasta style - maybe it reminds some of you of Carl, Jimmy Neutrons llama-loving friend, cause his hair is what I had in mind when making these:
When you want to recreate it go like this
is a double ring, and
stands for a simpl increase: make two sts in one
1 -- make a dr with 5 sts
2 -- m2 x5
3 til 5 -- sc 10 sts
6 -- sc8, sc2tog
7 -- sc7, sc2tog
8 -- sc6, sc2tog
9 -- sc5, sc2tog
1 -- make a dr with 6 sts
2 -- m2 x6
3 til 4 -- sc 12 sts
5 -- sc10, sc2tog
6 -- sc9, sc2tog
7 -- sc8, sc2tog
8 -- sc7, sc2tog
9 -- sc6, sc2tog
10 -- sc5, sc2tog
1 -- make a dr with 8 sts
2 -- m2 x8
3 til 4 -- sc 16 sts
5 -- sc14, sc2tog
6 -- sc13, sc2tog
7 -- sc12, sc2tog
8 -- sc11, sc2tog
9 -- sc10, sc2tog
10 -- sc9, sc2tog
11 -- sc8, sc2tog
12 -- sc7, sc2tog
13 -- sc6, sc2tog
I made 3xA, 4xB, 2xC and sorted like this: C-B-C-B-A-A-B-A-B
after I've joined everything I crocheted in the round and decreased: (
) * for the first row, and
all sts of last row, bind off and leave a long yarn tail, hide all yarn ends of the single "hair curls" and use the long tail to sew it to the head.
You might like to stuff the single "hair curls", if you don't they would form a little closer to the head.
When crochting you can also make
curly hair by adding
as you go: start like you would for making the head of your doll and add bobbles as you go, every few stitches in more acurate way (every second row every 2nd st for example) or wherever it fits and you would like your bobble to be.
Another way for curly hair would be to add chained stitches:
Above you also can see my troll with a short haired curly wig.
To make something like this
1 -- start just like for a regular doll head
2 -- creating a hair: chain 6 sts, and starting in 2nd stitch from hook sc into the next 5 sts.
3 -- go on with the pattern of yourdolls head
for this short haired version I made "hair" every 3 sts and every 2nd row. The row inbetween two "hair-rows" was very helpful to keep track of my sts. See the picture below for understanding the first stitch after a hair and the last stitch before a hair (green arrows). When you crochet around a hair take care that you hold the "hair" away from you, behind your yarn and hook.
When you elongate the chains they start curling automatically and might look like the hair of this beautiful bride, created by the lovely Adi (see her profile at flickr:
Adi also added that she made this couple for her sister's wedding invitation. Since she has lots of curly hair it took her almost a week to crochet the hair. The rest of the doll took 3 days....
And these acurate curling curls were made a little bit different than mine:
Each curl is made of two rows
1 -- chain 30 (more or less, depending on location)
2 -- 2x hdc in every second ch.
One more word on the width
: never become bigger than the size of your dolls head. The wig / cap will stretch and therefore fit your doll. If you're not sure test the size as you go as often as you like. You might like to loosen your tension a little to be absolutely sure your hair will fit your dolls head.
Add some real curl to your African American rag doll by cutting a simple wig from karakul, which is baby lamb skin. It is very tightly curled and can be applied directly to the rag doll's head with craft glue. Place the piece of karakul on the doll's head and adjust to fit. Allow the glue to dry completely.
18 Mohair or Kanekalon - Wigs for dolls
Achieve a straight hair look by using a piece of mohair pelt. This is long, silky hair from an angora goat. It can be purchased as shanks of hair or as pelt, but the pelt would be easier to manage on a rag doll since there would be no need to construct a wig cap. Cut individual pieces to achieve a layered look and glue in place
*Warning* this can get stressful and frustrating, so take the precautionary step of playing some soothing background music before you begin.
Let's start out with a simple, part down the middle, two buns at the side hairstyle. for this, I am using a synthetic (kanekalon… I don’t know what this means) large pony tail that I bought from our local costume supply store. I’ve also seen them at wig shops. (I have one in my hair color for when I want a big ’60s style bun) they are rather reasonably priced.
the manufacturer thoughtfully rubberbanded the hair directly in the middle, and we only need half, so snip snip at the rubberband, put away the other half for later.
first, we have to measure just how long of a piece of hair we’ll need. with a pencil, I draw a line right down the center of the doll’s head, this will also be the stitching line. take a 4-5 inch width of tissue paper and measure out that length. give yourself a little extra at the ends. cut 2.
trim paper to length. then hold up your hair bundle and find the center. (see the photo of my friend Heidi in the background? she’s the one with the black hair, and her friend Nick has the white hair. she called herself a “female drag queen” and she hung out with actual drag queens and would go to gay bars with them and get hit upon by gay men and she would have to confess to being “100% woman.” she was a kick, and I miss her immensely.)
using one of your tissue paper lengths as a guide, lay the hair flat. the center of the hair bundle should be in the center of the paper. spread everything evenly over the length of the paper.
then place the second length of tissue paper on top. so now you have a tissue paper fake hair sandwich. I drew a line down the center of the top paper… maybe you should do that too.
now, I hope you took my advice and loaded up the cd player (or ipod for all you fancy, modern people) with some REAL soothing music, because now is when everything could quickly go to hell in a hand basket… we have to carefully pick up this mess and transport it onto the sewing machine and sew teeny-tiny stitches down the middle. synthetic hair is slippery as all get-out, so CAREFULLY lift it up. because I don’t have a really wide sewing platform like some quilters do, I placed a tin (could use a book or whatever) to act as a platform. (good gravy… wrong photo orientation… sigh)
okay, now the pressure is kind of off. if you did a good job, and the hair is evenly spaced, pat youself on the back. if not, start all over from the beginning. there is no redeeming it.
stitch to the left and to the right of the center line. just a presser foot’s distance.
now we need to rip away the top layer of paper… carefully! don’t pull the stitches, we want them to stay even.
use a pin or something to pick away ALL of the paper on the top side. take your time.
nice and clean
now fold it in half. (look at those nails of mine. gorgeous!)
with the original center row of stitches now at the center of the fold, stitch just a TINY, almost unmeasureable, distance to the left of the left row of stitches.
now let’s open up and see how we did.
not too good. can you see the line of stitching? we don’t want to see that. but all is not lost… fold back. this time, flip over to the other side and stitch down to the left of the last row of stitches.
let’s check again. perfect. no visible stitches.
now we have to peel off the tissue paper. hope the soothing music is still playing, because this can take a while… you’ve got several layers of stitches there. and don’t think you can cheat and not pick the paper bits all out. and also don’t think you can get away with not using the tissue paper in this whole wiggy nonsense…. you will have a big, frustrating, tangled mess on your hands.
while I’m picking out miniscule bits of tissue paper with a pin, let’s see what the doggies are doing…
Orla, the ragamuffin rescue dog, at my feet as usual…
Sally, the sensitive poet, composing monumental works of beauty in her head while observing the glory of nature.
now we are going to pin the line of hair down the center of the doll’s head (along the pencil line). hopefully everything is fitting nicely and you maybe have a tiny bit of extra length at the front and back, which will be folded over, giving you a nice neat hairline. hand stitch using heavier craft/button thread, NOT all-purpose thread. believe me!
and that’s it! you’re done!
well, you have to style the hair… I did braided buns, but you could just do pony tails or whatever. I stitch them firmly to the head right behind the ears so that they’re not flapping about. also, to cut down on the synthetic hair sheen, I dust it with ground cinnamon.
a big, fat pain, no? but worth it, because the doll looks fantastic.
(footnote: for reference… just googled kanekalon, which I probably should have done sooner. “Kanekalon hair is a pretty good quality. Most synthetic wigs are made of this fiber because it looks more realistic in regards to color and texture. However, Kanekalon hair seems to tangle and mat very easily.” it seems that lots of dreadlock extensions are made of this material (wish I had known this 15 years ago! I can vouch for the fact that it does tangle easily, as I use it for my own fashion requirements. so, keep this in mind when using it for the doll’s hair. in order to avoid a big tangled mess, it would be best to permanently “style” the hair in braids or whatever.)
help on how to format text
Turn off "Getting Started"